Last week I wrote about how the metal in jewelry is not just gold or silver or brass or bronze or copper. It’s a mixture of metals called alloys, a punch if you will of different metals. There is a variety of silver recipes used to make different kinds of jewelry.
Pure silver or fine silver, 99.9% silver content, is usually used to make bullion bars for international commerce. In jewelry it is used only for special purposes because it’s soft. Jewelry wouldn’t be stable and would have scratches and dents in the surface if it were made entirely of fine silver. It is stamped with “999 FS.” An example of fine silver that I use is the wire that I mill by hand to use in Russian Filigree. Two pieces of wire are twisted together very tightly then rolled through a mill (much like an old washing machine ringer, only much smaller) that flattens it. This process makes it strong yet flexible enough to make the curled filler wires that are soldered into the sterling silver frame. The jewelry in the banner at the top of my blog has fine silver filler wires.

Filigree Sand Dollar Pendant
Sterling silver must contain at least 92.5% pure silver, the remaining 7.5% is usually copper. It is marked “Sterling” or “925.” This is the metal I usually use to make soldered jewelry. In the Sand Dollar Pendant, pictured left, I used sterling silver filigree wire which is hard enough to be used without a frame.
Romans called silver “argentum” and I suppose that’s the reason for the name “Argentium Silver” that was invented in 1996. This new flavor of silver is the same as sterling except that the copper is partially replaced by metalloid germanium. Tarnish (oxidation) is almost completely prevented in Argentium sterling silver. Two stamps are used on this metal, one is for the silver content and the other features a flying unicorn which signifies that the piece is Argentium sterling.
Platinum is the rarest metal used to make jewelry, 10 tons of ore is mined to get one ounce of metal. It was thought by Spanish conquistadors to be useless hence its name “platina” which means “little silver.” Platinum will be stamped with a number and “Plat” depending on how much alloy is in it.
Silver plated jewelry is electroplated with a thin coating of silver chemically deposited on base metal. The layer of silver is so thin that it wears off quickly with use. Jewelry made of silver plate is inexpensive but the silver finish is only temporary.
Mexican silver is a term used for several different grades of silver. It may be 92.5% silver, the same as sterling silver or even more pure with 95% silver and 5% copper. Look for the stamp “925″ or “950″ respectively, on the jewelry made with these grades of silver. A cheaper, poorer quality silver may be sold in some parts of Mexico. It could be silver plated and is also known as alpaca, nickel or German silver.
Britannia silver, has a silver content of at least 95.84%. It has been used as a standard in Britain since 1697. It will be stamped with “958″ to indicate its silver content.
Hill tribe silver is made by different tribes of Thailand. It may vary from 95% to 99% silver depending on which tribe it comes from. Their handcrafted products are carved beads and components used in jewelry. Because these items are so small they probably won’t have a quality stamp.
Bali beads are handcrafted on the island of Bali, Indonesia. They are sterling silver beads antiqued with a black patina. Beware of beads made in other countries that look like Bali beads. Sometimes called “Bali-style” beads, they may be made of a silver plated base metal.
The stamps that you find on jewelry are most often on commercially manufactured jewelry. Many individuals who make handcrafted jewelry do not mark their jewelry with a quality (or hallmark) stamp. Always buy from a dealer that you can trust. And beware of anyone who tries to sell you jewelry that is an unbelievable bargain.
There are even more silver flavored metals used to make costume jewelry that I’ll write about later.
Sources
Argentium sterling silver. (2010, July 16). In Wikipedia, The Free Encyclopedia. Retrieved 06:47, January 24, 2011, from http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Argentium_sterling_silver&oldid=373790734
Silver. (2011, January 23). In Wikipedia, The Free Encyclopedia. Retrieved 06:53, January 24, 2011, from http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Silver&oldid=409623511
History and Types of Jewelry. The Silver Gallery. Retrieved January 24, 2011, from http://www.silvergallery.com/history-sterling-silver.html
The Mettle of a Metal. Handcrafted-Jewelry.net. Retrieved January 24,2011
http://www.handcrafted-jewelry.net/metals.asp
About Metals. Rings and Things. Retrieved. January 24, 2011 http://www.rings-things.com/METALS.HTM